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Why not a plural form fares but fare(line6)? Can it be used as a collective noun?

The American paradox, in culinary terms, is that although foods from throughout the world are available, and often affordable, consistency and conservatism are also needed. At one end of the spectrum, people who are exposed to new foods through travel and those who crave new taste experiences have driven the rapidly expanding market for imported fruits, vegetables, and meat products, cheeses, and condiments. The growth in ethnic restaurants has far surpassed that of the restaurant industry as a whole in recent decades. A survey found that Italian, Mexican, Japanese (sushi), Thai, Middle Eastern, and Caribbean fare have grown most in popularity in recent years, while interest in French, German, Scandinavian, and soul food has declined. One of the most recent developments is the success of fast-casual ethnic restaurant chains, such as Chipotle, Curry in a Hurry, L&L Hawaiian Barbecue, Mama Fu’s, and Pho Hoa. Ninety-two percent of U.S consumers have eaten some form of ethnic food in the past three months (whether at home or from a restaurant). At the other end of the American continuum of cuisine, some people find considerable satisfaction in the uniformity of a meat-and-potatoes diet. A national trends survey found “plain” American food most well liked by respondents (66 percent).

Food and Culture

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Because there is no plural form, as "fare" in this particular sense (a range of food of a particular type) is uncountable.

See this entry from Oxford Dictionary:

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